Google+ for Photographers: Book Review

by photocascadia
May 1st, 2012

Google+ for Photographers: Book Review

By David Cobb

 

For the average person, the social network Google+ can seem a bit daunting, baffling, and confusing–with some head scratching in-between. The new book by Colby Brown, Google+ for Photographers lays out all the “how-tos” in an easy chapter-by-chapter read. Even though this reads as a hands-on approach to the Google+ network, every chapter offers a new way to market your photography online. For that alone this book is a valuable asset. It takes you through the initial set up of your account, to using the new Google+ app on your smartphone. Colby knows what he’s talking about here, because at last check he had almost a million-and-a-half people following him.

Colby gets you started with a how-to in building your profile page; taking you step-by-step through the process which includes suggestions for setting up your profile and Google+ site. He explains how to create circles (this is the Google+ way of sharing and filtering your interactions with others), and how to manage, organize, and communicate through those circles.

Best of all, this is a book about marketing yourself online, and he details the posting process and how to create and share a post that stands out from the crowd. You’ll find information on profiling your image for the web, commenting on posts, and +1ing on other posts. Since Google+ is so photographer-friendly, Colby helps you organize your images in albums via Picasa. Each chapter features an amateur or professional photographer in its “Photographer’s Perspective;” outlining what they appreciate most about the Google+ online photo community and how they interact best with that community.

One of the great features of the Google+ network is the Skype-like “hang-out” which offers the photographer ways to connect with up to 9 other people in a video conference. This allows for business meetings, group chats, classes, or photography reviews with people all over the world. Colby not only covers the possibilities of a hang-out session, but also takes you through an easy step-by-step process. I tried my first hang-out last month and had a great time conferencing with fellow f-Stop-sponsored photographers (including Photo Cascadia member Sean Bagshaw).

Google+ is quickly becoming a major online community of photographers, and reading Colby Brown’s Google+ for Photographers, is a step in the right direction for understanding and interacting with that community. This book weighs-in at 215 pages and retails for $24.99 ($15.50 on Amazon). It is available in paperback and Kindle versions.

Mysterious Salmon Light by Sean Bagshaw

by Sean Bagshaw
April 23rd, 2012

In October of 2011 Zack Schnepf and I took a very productive and enjoyable excursion to White Pocket, in the Vermilion Cliffs National Monument of northern Arizona. White Pocket rock formations have a unique strangeness and visual intrigue, like a place not of this planet. Zack and I spent four days burning through media cards in a rash of creative intensity. While the landscape itself was energizing, our experience was made even more special by spectacular purple/orange light that would bathe the landscape about 15 minutes before sunrise and 15 minutes after sunset each day. We had both experienced similar light before, but it was so powerful in this location that we came up with a name for it: salmon light.

White Pocket

All of these images were taken during the salmon light phase and they feature a similar magenta, pink or orange ambient glow emanating from high in the atmosphere. The actual light intensity during the salmon light phase of twilight is very low. Photographing at this time requires long exposures, but what those long exposures reveal is beautiful.

White Pocket

Later in that same trip I experienced more salmon light at Coyote Buttes South and Valley Of Fire.

Coyote Buttes South

Valley Of Fire

Looking back I also recall salmon light in the Tetons in September 2011 as well as several other occasions in the mountains, deserts and in Hawaii over the years.

Snake River Overlook, Grand Tetons National Park

Palouse Falls

People have assumed that the affect of salmon light is something I create with image developing techniques. While I certainly take creative advantage of such light in my developing, the basic effect is natural. In Valley Of Fire in Nevada I decided to take some comparison images to show how dramatically the light changes from sunset to the salmon light period. The following two images have been converted from the raw files with nothing more than a slight contrast adjustment. The first was taken just after the sun went down with light still illuminating the clouds on the skyline. The second image was taken about 20 minutes later at the peak of salmon light.

The light right after sunset vs 20 minutes later during the salmon light phase.

You can see how the quality of light has changed. The first image has less color and doesn’t feature the characteristic ambient glow. What you can’t see is how much darker the scene had become that long after sunset. The light in the second image is four stops darker than in the first so it required a shutter speed 16 times longer to achieve the same exposure value.

Curious about what might cause this light phenomenon and how I might be able to hunt down more of it I did some internet research. I found an informative article by Stephen F. Corfidi from the NOAA Storm Prediction Center. What Zack and I call salmon light he calls “lilac afterglow”.  According to him it is caused primarily by sunlight reflecting off  particles of dust and sulfuric acid droplets that have been ejected into the stratosphere at altitudes of 12 to 18 miles by volcanic eruptions. It occurs most vividly in deserts, on islands and at high altitudes where the air quality is most clean. This volcanic twilight or “afterglow” occurs about 15 minutes before sunrise and after sunset when the lower troposphere is in shadow but particals in the stratosphere are still being illuminated by sunlight that has passed through the lower atmosphere beyond the horizon. The glowing layer of high altitude particles reflects a smooth colored light that washes the entire landscape.

White Pocket

I wondered if 2011 had more than its share of volcanic eruptions so I visited the Smithsonian Global Volcanism Program website. Without crunching the data it is hard to tell if 2011 was a particularly big year for volcanoes but there were many eruptions around the globe as well as the large eruptions in Iceland in 2010.  Next time I’m in the high Arizona desert in the fall I will make note of the what the salmon light is like to see if we experienced a greater than normal degree of volcanic twilight.

While it may be difficult to accurately predict when salmon light will occur, I know where I’m more likely to find it. I also know I need to get out early and stay out late to be ready for the afterglow should it turn lilac colored.  Volcanic eruptions are part of life on earth. I’m anticipating future volcanic eruptions like the one Mt. Pinatubo had in 1991. From what I have read, the volcanic twilight after that eruption was off the chart.

Death Valley California-by Chip Phillips

by Chip Phillips
April 17th, 2012

Death Valley Dune Storm

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I made a recent trip to Death Valley for the first time and wanted to share a few of my favorite images from the trip.  The first night, we arrived at the campground, set up camp, and headed for the Mesquite dunes.  I scouted out some locations with my wife Mandy, then we went back to camp for dinner.  After dinner, I went back out for some shooting.  As I was hiking out I noticed the horizon slowly becoming very dusty and cloudy.  It was still pretty calm on the dunes.  All of a sudden, the wind kicked up on the dunes and I found myself in the middle of a windstorm.  I shot off a few frames hand-held, and then walked down into the dunes to take cover and put on one of those Optech Rainsleeves to protect my camera from the sand that was blowing everywhere.  I shot a few more images as the sun was setting, but my favorites were the ones I shot hand-held before taking cover.  When I got back to camp, there were tents blown down, chairs missing, and there was a very sandy wife waiting for me in a VERY sandy tent.  I barley slept through the night with sand blowing EVERYWHERE.  You desert rats know this I’m sure, but I learned the hard way not to camp in a three season backpacking tent during a sand storm!  I was picking sand out my ears for days.

Here is an image I shot in the same area before the wind started howling:

Walking the Dunes, Death Valley California

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Skies were clear my entire visit, so I tried to make the best of it by choosing compositions that didn’t include the sky.  The next morning, I looked for a higher vantage point to do some shooting with my 400mm telephoto lens that I packed all the way down for the trip.  I found a jeep road and drove up it a ways to a higher vantage point and waited for the sun to come up over the horizon.  I shot this next image with my 400mm f5.6 lens and 1.4x tele-converter, giving me 560mm.

Rolling Dunes, Death Valley California

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Can you find the person?  It’s a bit hard at this size.  Shooting this scene felt very familiar to me, as it is very much like shooting the rolling hills of the Palouse.

All in all it was a great trip, and was very inspirational to me.  There is so much to shoot in the surrounding area and it was a great idea to fly somewhere different and get out of my comfort zone here in the Northwest.  I can’t wait to get back and hit the area again during some different conditions. On a side note, thanks very much for all the support with the set of image editing videos I just released.  They have been very well received and I appreciate all of the great feedback.  If you have not checked those out yet, you can view an introduction video and purchase them through my website: www.chipphillipsphotography.com

 

Excuse Me, What Camera Did You Use to Take That Photo?

by Adrian Klein
March 29th, 2012

By Adrian Klein

It was after a recent showing of my work that this came to the forefront of my mind again. Talking to other photographers and asking them what camera they shoot with is about as common place as every other person talking about how’s the weather or local sports. Without fail almost everyone that commented on my work in person or via email that was into photography asked what I photograph with. Some responded that they hoped to upgrade or get a ‘better’ DSLR. In one case I responded that one of the handful of photos displayed was taken with a Canon 40D (the same camera as this person asking me).

So why I am bringing this up? There are many reasons but the big one that comes to light is a reminder that buying the newest or best camera does not necessarily mean your photography will move to the next level or make you a better photographer. Our digital age has brought us into a period where newer, more mega-pixels, and increased bells & whistles is equated to better and needed NOW. I have seen photographers become sheepish about discussing their gear unless it’s the latest or greatest. We are heavily persuaded to buy new equipment every time it comes out, which is very often if you compare it to only decades ago. Your shooting buddy has the new 89 mega pixel TRM IV (Totally Rocks Model) so you should upgrade right away too?!

Obviously I am not against technology or getting new camera paraphernalia. I am not living in a rustic hut deep in the woods but in a city, and I work in the field of technology which fascinates me. Like most American’s I do have a computer (make that computers), digital media players, smartphone, etc. That said I also don’t change my technology as often as most I know and I have been that way as long as I can remember. My iPod is six years old, my desktop computer close to the same and our only TV is a tube TV from the late 90’s. This also goes for my camera gear. I replace it when it truly ages or when it breaks. I am about to upgrade my DSLR but as I write this I still shoot with two Canon 5D MKI bodies which has been my main choice for the last 4+ years. Even though most of my peers no longer use this camera it has not stopped me from creating great photographs, selling large prints, licensing images and helping others learn photography.

Here are some suggestions to keep a little more in your bank account while still moving on to new and different equipment, along with solid areas to focus on growing your skills in photography sans equipment upgrades.

When To Upgrade

  • Generation Skip: A cost effective way to do this is to skip a model. For example a ways back I went from the Canon 20D to 40D, skipping the 30D. I use to do this with Photoshop until their recent policy change.
  • Used: If you can find a great deal on used equipment this is also time to buy. I have bought a fair percentage of my camera gear used yet in fine shape.
  • Breakage: When your camera is destroyed by that rogue ocean wave, well it might be a good time to move up to the next model. Remember to carry insurance.
  • Gear Junkie: If you have the dispensable income and always desire the newest toys to show off to your peeps or just play with then by all means. This post is not meant to stop you.
  • Homework Complete: Do your homework before a major upgrade. Upgrading a camera body might not be as simple as just getting a new camera. If the MP’s double you will likely need more HD space, more media cards, does it take different media cards, different batteries, and the list goes on.
  • Improvements: Highly justifiable improvements from what you have to what you want to move to has jumped leaps and bounds and you really need the new features, not just a move up in mega-pixels.

Why Wait To Upgrade

  • Business: Treat it as business if you are a business, a business does need to make a profit to survive (or should). Upgrading equipment too frequently or buying too much cuts into your possible income.
  • Continuing Ed: There are numerous low to no cost ways to improve your photography that don’t involve buying new camera gear. Getting a ‘better’ camera to be a better photographer is mostly a fallacy. See the next section for more details.
  • Environmental: As an avid outdoor adventurer I think about the environment. Upgrading less frequently lightens my carbon foot print.

Improve Your Photography – Low to No Cost

  • Composition: Know and understand composition. I feel it’s one of the most important components to a good photograph. (your camera does not know where to place the tripod)
  • Processing: Enhance your processing skills can help take those thousands of RAW files on your drive from hidden gems into final masterpieces (many great videos and articles on this blog for this one!)
  • Buddy System: Spend time in the field with others whether a photo club, casual meet-up or attending a workshop. I have learned a lot about photography from just hanging out with photographers.
  • Practice: It’s an old saying yet it never dies. The more you practice the better you will get and the more you will grow.

Feel free to share your thoughts on upgrading or not upgrading here. Are know there are even more pros and cons and for each of it’s different.

 

Taken last fall in Kauai with my older and battered 5D MKI. It still captures great clean files.

 

Image Editing Volume 1

by Chip Phillips
March 23rd, 2012

I am happy, after much hard work, to finally release my first set of editing videos:
Image Editing Volume 1
I look at these videos not as a complete set of Photoshop processing tutorials from beginning to end, but more like a set of my favorite tools that I find most useful in my own processing. To me, Photography is all about creativity, and the more tools you have in your arsenal, the more creative you can be.

In the first two videos in the set, I introduce and lay a strong foundation for concepts such as layers, adjustment layers, layer masks, and luminosity masks. I show you in detail how to make and use these, and I demonstrate various ways to use them with examples on some of my images.

In my next video, Color, I take you through various different tools that I use when working with color, from the RAW stage into Photoshop. I demonstrate how to make various localized color adjustments to both color tone, and saturation. I also demonstrate how I use saturation and vibrance masks in my editing on some of my images.

In my next 3 videos, I introduce some of my favorite tips and editing tools, such as how I use the Orton effect, adjusting contrast locally, and sharpening images for the web and for print.  In my Orton video, How I Use the Orton Effect I explain my method for creating the Orton Effect, and do it as an action.  You can follow along and have the action all made and ready to go by the time the video is finished. I explain how I use it, as well as some alternative Orton Effects that I sometimes use. I also explain how to use these in combination with luminosity masks. I explain how to sharpen for web as an action as well in Sharpening Images For the Web and For Print. In Local Contrast and Brilliance I demonstrate 3 different ways that I adjust the micro-contrast, or localized contrast in my images.

In my final video, Raw Preparation, Hand Blending Mulitiple Exposures Using Luminosity Masks, and Depth of Field Blending, I take you through a complete edit of two of my images from the RAW stage to finish, putting most of the techniques described in the previous videos to the test. We start with the easier blend of the two, “Winter Morning Palouse”. First, I talk about the “in field” technique I use for shooting multiple exposures. Then, I demonstrate various RAW adjustments I make to the images before the blend, and then take you through my hand blending procedure using luminosity masks. From there we move on to Photoshop for some finishing touches and artistic effects. With the second of the two images, “Palouse Lupine Rays”, we go through the entire process of blending an image for both depth of field and dynamic range. With this last example, I start by going over my “in field” technique for capturing the different exposures needed for both the depth of field blend and the dynamic range blend. From there, I talk about RAW adjustments, and then I demonstrate how to blend multiple exposures for depth of field in both Photoshop and Helicon Focus. Next, we work on the dynamic range, blending multiple exposures by hand with luminosity masks. From there, we move on to blending our final image, and then work on the final image in Photoshop, making adjustments for contrast, color, and applying some of my favorite tools for artistic effect.

For more information, watch my preview video above.  Some basic knowledge of Photoshop is recommended, and these tutorials are not compatible with Elements. I hope you find these videos useful in your own processing. I would love any feedback as well as any suggestions for things to be included in future videos. Thanks for your support! Chip

 

Tips for Photographing in the Rain

by photocascadia
March 16th, 2012

Tips for Photographing in the Rain

By David Cobb

 

So what if it rains? This is the Pacific Northwest after all and rain is part of life here. I guess that’s why I have a plan B and C during my workshops, to take care of such eventualities. Last weekend was “Dave’s Worst-Weather-Ever Workshop” along the northern Oregon and southern Washington coastlines. The rain and wind storms were pretty bad. A lot of people thought the sun came with me for all my workshops, and I was getting pretty cocky after continually seeing the clouds part at the beginning of a session and close up when it ended. In lieu of staying indoors a bit more and concentrating on processing (which we did), here are a few photo tips for when it rains along the Oregon and Washington coastlines. (Canon and Nikon seal their cameras pretty well, other makers seal them tightly to not-so-much, so know how well your camera does before taking it out in the rain.)

1)      Carry a good camera bag and rainfly: I have to admit I love the back access on the f-Stop camera bags during a rainstorm. I just set the bag down on the wet sandy beach, rainfly side down, and access all my equipment. When I put the pack back on my back, the muddy side is on the outside and the clean side is against my back. That way my rain jacket keeps me dry a lot longer. A good rainfly for your camera bag can be picked up at any outdoor store.

2)      Use a rain cover for your camera: I often opt for the cheap grocery store plastic bag version with a hole cut in it, but there are a whole host of good camera rain covers out there. Simply Google “camera rain cover” and you’ll have a variety to choose from. They vary from the cheap homemade versions like mine to the bomb-proof Think-Tank Hydrophobia.

3)      Find a sea cave: Sounds simple doesn’t it? The other day during a rain storm on the Oregon coast, I just wandered into a really cool cave and let my eyes adjust. Watch for the tides, but otherwise you can work for hours coming up with some interesting compositions while staying dry.

4)      Bring an umbrella: An obvious point, but you’d be surprised how many people don’t bring an umbrella along while photographing.

5)      Stay in your car and photograph abstracts through the soaked windshield: A couple of people did this during the last workshop at a harbor and they got some fantastic results. The last time I used this technique was from a taxi cab in Albania, and I wish I had remembered to do it for the harbor shots this time around.

6)      Go to a bunker: There are World War II bunkers all over the coastline, and they really have quite a bit of character with their rusty doors, stark hallways, old ladders, and walls filled with moss and lichen. Best of all, they make a great wind break and are not only bomb-resistant, but rain-resistant too.

7)      Point your lens downward: I use my lens hood not only for sun protection, but rain protection. During those dreary winter days, I’m less likely to look for the grand landscape and more likely to look for the small scene. I often start to think and see in black and white too. By keeping my lens pointing down, I keep it free from those pesky rain drops.

8)       Go to the forest: The coastal forest is a great place to shoot on a rainy day. The trees block the wind, keep me drier, and the forest light can be amazing or moody.

9)      Dry off your gear: I carry a facecloth in my bag and I’m constantly giving my camera a pat down and dry off. I make sure I do this at the end of the shoot when I put my camera away, and I do it again when I go back inside. I also extend my tripod legs when I return inside and give them a wipe-down too.

There you have it. The next time it rains, quit your whining and head for the coast – I’ll be there with a smile on my face and staying dry.

Creating Your Own Perspective In Photography by Kevin McNeal

by photocascadia
March 12th, 2012

Hole In The Wall

 

If you were to view any images throughout the photography community today, such as online resources, magazines, or art shows, you will notice one common element among all images; the photographers responsible for these images, have their very own unique perspective that defines their style of photography.So how does one individual trying to improve his photography develop a unique perspective? The answer lies within the individual and how one defines perspective within their own photography skills. In photography, perspective is a style of shooting that is an extension of one’s thoughts, feelings and emotions in terms of the subject being shot. There are many perspectives in photography, and the majority of photographers shoot the same kinds. The result is repeated attempts at shooting the same subjects with familiar results. Therefore, it is necessary to look within oneself to find the creative side that brings out the best in each photographer. Photographers that stand out, first, look at what other photographers are shooting and then find new ways to shoot familiar subjects; they achieve this in ways that photographers before have not shown. These photographers develop a sense of style to portray their vision that captures the viewers’ attention. It is necessary to think of how you want others to see what you envisioned when you think about your subject. Hence, it is imperative to build personal beliefs on how to vitalize fresh perspectives to subjects that give a higher purpose to the subject. What this means is discarding any preconceived notions of the subject in past examples, and begin your own study of what the subject means personally to you. Overall, it is important to develop a unique perspective in photography that defines who you are and how you want others to see what you are seeing.

 

 

Picture Lake In Winter

 

 

The process begins with a pre visualization of the subject and how it relates within the realm of its environment. Once this is achieved, the next step is to commence the process of finding a perspective that defines you.  There are different ways to express the relation of the subject but the important thing is that it is meaningful to you. Some of the following concepts carry meaning to any style of photography but the following examples showcase specifically how to create new perspectives in landscape photography.

For a landscape photographer the most important ingredient for success is the inclusion of implied depth in any image. The appearance of depth visually stimulates the viewer and injects the viewer into the image. The advantage to this is, that it allows the viewer to let the eyes wander within the image and the causality of this action keeps the viewer returning to the main subject. This is vital in simulating depth as cameras can only capture images that are two–dimensional. So, if photographers relied on the camera to do the work and never injected their own personal perspective, then images would end up very static and lack any substance. Therefore, creativity is necessary for the photographer in finding ways to include three-dimensional qualities in the image. This can be illustrated by the following methods that enhance the interest of the subject. Some of the following concepts have really been a important process of learning new ways to create perspectives within one’s photography.

 

Sunset Winter On Mt Rainier

Firstly, to express perspective effectively you need to arrange your subjects in terms of spatial qualities. To do this, one needs to emphasize cues in the landscape that signify depth.  As mentioned previously, a landscape photographer needs to be concerned about depth as much as the subject. One of the ways to achieve this is including size cues within the image. Size cues are used to give the viewer a sense of depth by placing objects within the image at certain positions that enhance depth. Subjects that are closer appear larger than those farther away, thus an exaggerated depth of field. Therefore precise framing of the camera should show size cues arranged at intervals from largest to smallest on a diagonal plane. The viewer is aware that the objects are the same size if on the same plane but positioned carefully the size cues demonstrate a quality of depth within the image. So incorporate familiar objects in the image that people are aware of when it comes to relative sizes. Some examples of these well-known size cues are cumulus clouds, sand ripples, and ocean waves, which all appear smaller as they near the horizon. Other objects that are effective for this type are rivers, streams, fallen logs, wildflowers, trees., and even wildlife. By effectively using spatial cues in your images to portray depth you can create a sense of style that gives your photography a different look.

 

 

Maroon Bells Sunrise

 

 

Another concept that is important in the strength of perspectives is angles of view. When thinking about how to capture your subject, the lens will affect your perception of the subject. Wide-angle lenses increase the perceived distance between elements and give the feeling of deep space. Telephoto lenses do the opposite and compress the distance between elements in a scene. How you choose to shoot the subject drastically changes how your viewer is going to see the subject. For example when shooting a forest scene in fall; you can choose to show the forest and all its vastness with a wide-angle lens; Or the complete opposite perspective and shoot a tightly framed shot of the important elements of the scene without giving any clues as to what or where the subject is. Each perspective is important in its own right but goes to show that either can visually stimulate your viewer.

 

Another element that enhances perspective and increases depth in photography is weather conditions. For a landscape photographer, weather often produces situations such as hazy conditions that create mood and add mystery to the subject. This presents a situation where objects closer to the camera appear sharper and more detailed then those farther away. This is due to the atmospheric particles suspended in the air. For a photographer these elements can be seen in conditions like fog, mist, rain, snow, dust, and haze. Haze works magic on your images when trying to create unique perspectives. Evaluating the conditions and adjusting your position to the movement of the haze is critical to capturing what the mood felt like at the time. For example, fog along the horizon on the ocean when shooting a coastal image can be a great time to look for higher ground, such as a cliff or hill to get a new perspective from above the fog. Another situation to look for, is when fog occurs in lower elevations such as places like valleys; Try to get above it by getting higher then the fog and creating something surreal. Often snow or dust drifts can add drama to an image and create intended movement in the image that draws the viewer into the image. Another unique occurrence can be found in rural areas where early morning mist clings low to the repeating patterns of rolling hills and valleys. The detail in the foreground brings attention to the image and the mist gives the illusion of  depth in the distant endless rolling hills. These are just some of the elements to look for when adapting new perspectives to enhance your photography.

 

Cala Lilies Along The Californian Coast

 

A very important overlooked concept in achieving ground-breaking perspectives is overlapping subjects within the image. Precise placement of subjects overlapping can enhance your image especially with landscape features. Subjects such as rocks and trees can be used effectively if placed compositionally in an overlapping perspective line; it is important though to have enough space between each other as subjects too close to each other look muddled and lose the viewers attention. Therefore, only overlap simple areas or areas of strong contrast. A good example of this concept is intersecting landscape planes like sand dunes or rolling hills in rural areas or mountainous terrains. Try to match the most interesting lines and have them go in different directions. Follow the guidelines of carefully placing your composition so that everything has a purpose. When it comes time to show your images the message to your viewer will be much clearer.

 

Pathway To The Peaks

 

Lastly, the most essential way to create perspective and depth in your image is sidelight volume. Landscapes illuminated from sidelight, highlight the subject’s surfaces and shapes and add interest in the subject as the viewer can now compare size cues and other spatial relationships. It is necessary to try to emphasize the surfaces when framing the image by setting the shadow portion against the highlighted set. The best time of day to achieve this perspective is early in the day or near sunset to maximize shadow and highlight coverage of the subject.

 

In conclusion, it is important to note that all of these concepts contribute to winning images, but each has its importance to the goal you are trying to convey in the end. Not every concept will work in every situation but evaluate what will work in terms of what defines your style of photography and gets your message across best to your viewers.

 

Shi Shi Beach Starburst

 

 

 

Add Some Edge Definition And Structure by Sean Bagshaw

by Sean Bagshaw
March 6th, 2012

Maintaining or introducing edge definition and general structure in an image is something that I often find myself challenged with. Sometimes I need to overcome flat light, back lighting or simply the lack of definition inherent in many raw images. Other times it is to reintroduce definition that was lost from the effects of another developing technique. Often it is to help showcase a feature, create a sense of dimension or create more crisp visual clarity in part of an image. There are many adjustments that can be used to these ends, both in Lightroom and in Photoshop. Clarity in Lightroom is a good starting point and the Clarity slider has been improved in the newly released Lightroom 4. Levels, Curves, Contrast and Shadow/Highlight adjustments as well as the Unsharp Mask filter in Photoshop all offer different approaches and looks. I often employ several of these methods in any given image. However, for the best combination of targeting midtone edge definition while maintaining a non-destructive workflow I find that a High Pass filter method is often my favorite.

The High Pass filter method of adding structure and definition that I like to use goes a little something like this:

  1. With the top layer in your layer stack selected click ctrl+alt+shift+e (cmd+opt+shift+e on a Mac). This will stamp the current state of your image to a new layer at the top of your stack called Layer.
  2. Rename this layer High Pass Contrast, or something like that.

    Ctrl+alt+shift+e (cmd+opt+shift+e on a Mac) will stamp a copy of your image to a new layer at the top of your stack. Rename this layer High Pass Contrast.

  3. With the High Pass Contrast layer selected go to Layer>Smart Objects>Convert To Smart Object. This will allow filters you apply to this layer to be Smart Filters which can be further adjusted in the future.

    Convert the High Pass Contrast layer to a Smart Object.

  4. Now go to Filter>Other>High Pass. Set the radius to the number of pixels you desire. A smaller radius will increase definition along fine edges. A larger radius will create contour in large areas around edges. Since this will be a smart filter on a smart object getting the radius perfect isn’t critical. You can come back and fine tune it later.  Click OK.
  5. The High Pass Contrast layer should now appear gray with light/dark halos around the edges in the image.

    Apply the High Pass Filter.

  6. Set the blending mode of the High Pass Contrast layer to Soft Light. This will blend the High Pass Contrast layer with the layers below, increasing edge contrast and definition at the pixel radius you set. For even more contrast you can set the blending mode to Overlay.

    Set the blending mode of the High Pass Contrast layer to Soft Light. Double click on High Pass to reopen the filter and fine tune your adjustment if needed.

  7. You can now click on High Pass on the High Pass Contrast layer to reopen the High Pass Filter dialogue and further fine tune the radius for the look you want.

If you don’t want the High Pass contour effect to be applied to the entire image you can add a mask to the High Pass Contrast layer, fill the mask with black and then paint the effect in just where you want it with a white brush. Instead of painting on your mask you can also make a specific selection from which to create your mask for the High Pass Contrast layer.

Before High Pass Contrast

Final Image

Sometimes I will use two or more High Pass Contrast layers set to different radii so that I can paint in different degrees of definition to different areas of the image. I can also adjust the amount of the High Pass effect by changing the opacity of the High Pass Contrast layer.

This method gives a very similar affect as using the Unsharp Mask (USM) filter set to a large radius to create contrast and definition. However, a USM filter must be applied to an opaque copy layer of the image which means that any adjustment layers below the USM layer will now be rendered useless for future adjustments. Because the High Pass Contrast layer uses the soft light blending mode it is no longer an opaque layer so new adjustments made to layers below will still have affect. This makes it a more flexible and non-destructive technique.

Feel free to leave a comment or question or share your favorite non-destructive techniques for adding definition and structure to an image. If you are interested in learning more of my digital image developing workflow and techniques check out my series of video tutorials.

 

 

New Photography Copyright Laws – Where Do You Stand?

by Adrian Klein
February 27th, 2012

By Adrian Klein

Unless you have been sitting under the drape of a large format camera the last decade you have seen the topic of copyright and piracy come and go in the lime light. Most recently drafted United States bills of SOPA and PIPA took center stage in January 2012.

I have seen emails and articles with strong stances on both sides. Since photographs were first protected under copyright laws starting in 1865 there have been multiple battles waged in this area, this is not the first. What got me interested in writing this post about this topic is to put out my opinions and see if others really think we need more governance to help protect photographers.

After PIPA and SOPA were drafted and about to be debated in our branches of government numerous online companies from Google to Mozzila (Firefox) put the word out in late January that these were incorrect solutions to the problem that could hurt the Internet as we know it including a black out day to gain attention to the issue. This was in sharp contrast to what the other side was saying from RIAA and various other organizations and businesses. I even received the email from PPA that I found somewhat troubling to read. A photography organization that I was a member with for years talked about how companies like Google do not have our best interests in mind and that PPA supports PIPA and SOPA. That might be true in some regards yet I don’t feel these bills were the answer either.

Copyright infringement is definitely more prevalent today in our digital age. I cannot log onto a social networking site anymore without seeing a post about a photographer that had some image used without their permission. I fully support protecting photographer’s copyright if that was not obvious since I am a photographer. And technically your image is copyrighted the moment it’s created with numerous steps you can take today to help show you own the copyright on an image.  I don’t want my work used without consent like the vast majority out there, and I take steps to help minimize this from the beginning yet I know I cannot eliminate it if I want to display my work online.

Additionally registering your images with the library of congress can make an infringing damage award higher and easier to prove if it was taken through the legal system, yet I am aware this is something most of us don’t have the bandwidth or finances to do unless the infringement is large enough. Smaller infringements might be able to be resolved by just sending an email or letter. I also realize this only helps post infringement and does not help to reduce infringements. However with the many ways to copy an image from the Internet today I don’t see this ever going completely away. If a person wants to use your online photograph without your permission whether for personal use or commercial, they can.

As long as we continue the trend to make images easy to buy (as seen today with numerous ways to buy images online from print to digital files) I feel this will only help reduce issues and frustration around the subject. Maybe I am naively hopeful.

Suggestions to help protect your images:

  1. Do not post high resolution images online. Approximately 700 pixels at 72 dpi is a good size. I still see large images posted online often.
  2. Add a watermark to your images in Photoshop. They do not need to take away from the photo, can be added to be noticeable but not intrusive.
  3. Add metadata to your images with a copyright statement and your contact info. This helps show who owns the image if there is any question.
  4. Do not supply images without a contract license. Even if granting zero cost licenses for specific cases you should still have it documented.
  5. Register your images with Library of Congress: http://www.copyright.gov/
  6. Educate your clients. When I had my portrait & wedding business I supplied a document that talked about everything the client could or could not do with purchased digital negatives.
  7. And lastly if you have images that you want to guarantee are never used without your consent under any circumstance, don’t post them online.

I think the answer is to continue to educate the public and clients. Additional laws may help only slightly if at all and will be a delicate balance of too much power vs too little like any new law. The point of this post is to get you thinking, not solve it. What are your thoughts? Are current laws enough or do we need a tighter government clamp on the Internet? Feel free to share your views here.

Below are examples of sizes and watermarking that you might want to evaluate that I have seen in use. This will be a personal preference based on how much you want to bring the viewer in and fully enjoy the online visual experience, or not.

An example of my web presentation for most sites. 665 x 456 pixels including border with a light opacity watermark in one of the corners.

Although this will certainly be effective in deterring unsolicited use of an image. It will also have less visitors viewing your work with less inquiries. Yet I have seen instances similar to this.

Notice this image is very small if you click on it, 365 x 250 pixels at full size. While this again may deter people it also does not allow those you want to potentially purchase your work to truly get a feeling for the imagery.

Photoshop Multiple Exposure Blending Video

by photocascadia
February 13th, 2012

by Zack Schnepf

Last week I finally released my long awaited Multiple Exposure Blending and Tonality Control Video. I wanted to make a post to help explain what this video is all about.  The idea for this video came from teaching Photoshop workshops.  The topic that gets requested most often is multiple exposure blending.  Like me, most of my students are not satisfied with the results they get from HDR software.  Images get over tone mapped, and lose their natural tonality range due to the automated nature of the software.  The techniques I developed are designed to take control of the tonality of your images, so the final image looks like the way you envision it.

Over the course of 3 hours and 40 minutes I guide the viewer through my advanced multiple exposure workflow in detail.  I illustrate the powerful tools and techniques I use to control tonality throughout the entire workflow.  This workflow is the result of my 12+ years teaching Photoshop.  These techniques are quite advanced, and can be a challenge, but they produce incredible results that are not possible with HDR software.

The techniques I cover include:

  1. Luminosity masks and selections
  2. Refined Selections
  3. Advanced selection building
  4. Image repair and cloning
  5. Advanced burning
  6. Freehand masking
  7. And more

I’ve also included the 4 raw files I use for the project.  These files are for practice only of course.  This allows a student to follow along on his or her own and practice with the exact same files I’m demonstrating with.  This has been very helpful in my Photoshop workshops.  You can see the final image below.

This video is #2 in a series, but is the first to be released due to demand.  The beginning Photoshop video, and an additional advanced video on compositing and other advanced tips and tricks will be released later this year.

As such, this video is not intended for Photoshop beginners.  Students need to be familiar with the basic tools in Photoshop, as well as masks, adjustment layers, and basic selections.  All of the processing is done within Photoshop and Adobe Camera Raw.  My workflow is based in CS5, but almost all of the techniques are compatible with previous versions of Photoshop.  This is not compatible with Photoshop Elements.

For more information visit my site www.zschnepf.com

Check this out, 3.5 hours in 1.5 minutes.  Time-lapse of my video.

 

Enchanted Sky Fire (video announcement)